The two-star chef Andrea Aprea: if you pay the right one, hire now

from Roberta Schira

From the Park Hyatt (left two years ago) at the helm of the new restaurant in the archaeological museum in Corso Venezia: «I had no difficulty in finding collaborators: from employee I became an entrepreneur. I dreamed of my own place “

They say there is a personal emergency in restaurants, and it is certainly true. But I had no difficulty in hiring my thirty collaborators: a reliable team, which will begin work in corso Venezia at number 52, in the building of the Luigi Rovati Foundation. Now my only goal is to get off to a great start ». Speak out Andrea Aprea, Neapolitan chef who brought two Michelin stars to the Park Hyatt in Milan, a luxury hotel he left almost two years ago, at maximum visibility (the structure then closed for works, until the recent reopening, with the new chef Guido Paternollo). In the building overlooking Porta Venezia, and which from September will host the new museum, Aprea, born in 1977, manages the restaurant on the first floor and the café bistro on the ground floor: both bear his name and open on 6 July. The team, therefore, is ready. On the figures of the salaries of the collaborators he is not unbalanced: “If you pay the right you will find them”. But on the recruitment crisis on which so many have intervened she prefers to blur: “I don’t want to enter into the discussion on the subject.”

The gourmet restaurant is 400 square meters, divided into 210 of hall, cellar, entrance hall, 190 square meters of ergonomic open kitchen. The seats are 36, with eight tables arranged in the central room and the others in a private room. The room, with windows overlooking the park of Porta Venezia, has an unusual bucchero cladding; recalls the organ pipes, it is the black ceramic with which the Etruscans made the vases. A quote from the collections that will be exhibited in the museum. The Caffè Bistrot, on the other hand, overlooks a secret courtyard with a green hill. The materials of the rooms, chosen by the architect Flaviano Capriotti, are wood, plaster, stone.

“I have finally crowned a dream,” says Aprea. “A restaurant of my own. But my hand as a cook hasn’t changed, my approach has changed. I am no longer an employee, but an entrepreneur. A big difference. I wanted a place destined for culture and art. Here the Milanese will be able to enjoy a break immersed in beauty, between nature and my great classics. The bistro will live from the morning, with tables also outside ». Andrea Aprea’s comeback in grand style gives Milan – the city a national and international stage for every food-related project – another high-level destination.

It had been talked about for some timein the not insignificant slice of Milanese interested in the “chef society”: what happened to Aprea? Now fans of him know it. And they will rediscover the Dolce Salato caprese, its signature dish. «In these magical spaces I will make my contemporary Italian cuisine. Such as, for example, prawns, porcini mushrooms and tarragon, or rice extracted from peppers, oysters and candied lemon. I remain consistent with my story, placing more and more attention on the choice of suppliers “. Her alter ego, the maître and sommelier Jessica Rocchi (over 650 labels in the cellar). Three restaurant menus: Contemporaneity (5 courses dedicated to the relationship between memory and innovation: cost 155 euros); Partenope (6-course trip in the suggestions of Campania: 175 euros); Signature (the chef’s philosophy in 8 courses: 195 euros). At the bistro, dishes range from 20 to 30 euros.

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July 6, 2022 (change July 6, 2022 | 09:38)

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The two-star chef Andrea Aprea: if you pay the right one, hire now


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